Cocktail Corner: Old Fashioned, Side Car, Other Stuff @ The Exchange

I stopped into the brand new Wicker Park bar The Exchange in the old Lava location this past weekend. Billed as something of a combination of now-defunct Sonotheque and Violet Hour, The Exchange offers a long menu of specialty cocktails, beers, and even a few punch bowls for sharing. The prices are reasonable, the atmosphere is on the swankier side of things, but nowhere near as stuffy as Violet Hour. The problem is, the drinks are downright lousy. I had a couple of things off the specialty menu on my server's suggestion, and was very disappointed. I then asked if I could order off menu, and she said I was limited to "old timey" cocktails (her words, not mine, which I loved anyway). I ordered a Side Car (lousy) an Old Fashioned (lousy) and a Dark and Stormy (lousy). By this point, though, I was thoroughly shitfaced. Oh, and I had also been drinking beer for 8 hours at this point, so maybe my judgment wasn't exactly perfect. So, I'll try the place again, but my initial impression was one of disappointment. The place is lovely, and the employees are attentive and cheerful, so I'm hoping that I was just in a bad frame of mind. I'll give them the benefit of the doubt, and rate the drinks that I tried as a C.

Everything @ Revolution Brewing

Yes, I waited the 2 hours for a table during opening weekend in a crush of people. Yes, in that time I sampled all 5 of the house brews.

It was all worthwhile.

First off, it's a great space, and surprisingly well-run for being only a few days old and completely overrun with patrons. If it was surprising that the food cedes nothing to the beer at this brewpub, perhaps it is more understandable that the varied and extensive menu comes from the mind behind Handlebar. All four of the Bruschetta (Roasted cauliflower & white bean, Duck confit, cremni mushrooms & fontina cheese, Roasted beet, endive & goat cheese, and tomato, red onion, & mozzerella) were terrific. The Workingman burger, though dry (as grass-fed, sustainable beef often is), was well seasoned, cooked, and very tasty. The Beluga Lentils, Quinoa & Winter Vegetables entree was similarly well-balanced, and far more accomplished than a barely week-old brewpub has a right to be. 


But, surely, the beer is the focus here, though only 5 home brew styles were offered (there is an extensive bottle list, as well as a selection of other tap beers). I'll do an abbreviated review of each, below:


Cross of Gold
"Crisp golden ale with a delicate hop finish" (5.0% ABV) is how they describe it. This is probably the standout and most original of the selection, with an unusual balance of pilsner-esque crispness and mild-IPA style hoppiness. Good mouthfeel, with nice, even coverage. A tiny twinge in the back of the tongue adds a nice finish. A

Workingman Mild"English luncheon beer with toffee and caramel notes. Low in alcohol, high in flavor" (3.5% ABV) - the "luncheon" beer was my choice for accompanying the Workingman Burger, and was a nice pairing. The Mild is mild in taste and appearance, though neither lacking in mouthfeel nor drinkability. I relatively low ABV content does not detract from the flavor, though the beer itself is nothing extraordinary. Solid, if unremarkable. B-

Iron Fist Pale Ale
"Dry-hopped American ale featuring Centennial, Cascade, Chinook and Amarillo hop varieties" (5.5% ABV) - one of two pale ales on tap this night, this was the milder of the two, with a very balanced, albeit subtle, hop profile. Nice color, aroma, and drinkability, though lacking in the signature bitterness that typical American-style IPAs have become known for. B-

Eugene
"Striking, robust porter full of warmth and chocolate malt." (7.0% ABV) - An excellent porter, with a dry finish and bold, yet balanced, maltiness. This would make an exemplary cask ale, were it to be offered (c'mon, offer it!). Surprisingly drinkable given the ABV, with all the even tongue coating that a porter should have. As fine an example as you will find locally. A

Anti-Hero IPA
This beer was a late addition to the offering, so no brewer-penned description available. Far hoppier than the Iron Fist Pale Ale, the Anti-Hero cost an extra $1 and was a smaller pour, but was easily more assertive and enjoyable. A fine IPA, if perhaps not amongst the very elite. A-


Per the website brewer's website, Bottom Up Belgian Wit and Wee Heavy are next to come. Having really enjoyed the Belhaven Wee Heavy at the Beer Tour of Europe in November, that is greatly anticipated. 


Revolution Brewing is open 11am - 2am 7 days a week, and offers lunch and dinner. It is located at 2323 N Milwaukee Ave; Chicago, IL; 60647  and its website is http://revbrew.com/

Old Fashioned @ Longman & Eagle

Beyond Beer: The Old Fashioned

Like the Dos Equis guy, I don't always drink beer (unlike him, though, I don't prefer XX). Longman & Eagle is a new whisky-centric bar/inn in Logan Square co-owned by the guy who brought us Empty Bottle. If you think that sounds like a fantastic place, you're right. I didn't try any of their food, and was mildly disappointed in their minimal (and pedestrian) tap beer selection, but oh man do they mix up one fine Old Fashioned. They don't use the finest bourbon, or infused ice, or exotic bitters (like other "mixology" bars cropping up around the city), but it's crafted with patience and utmost care. Although the bar was packed, and people were lined 3 deep waiting to place orders, the bartender carefully mixed, tested, and balanced the Old Fashioned until it was just-so, going so far as scoring the orange zest and squeezing the fruit at a distance from the glass to imbue only a fine mist of the citrus juice. And it worked, brilliantly. A+