Monday, February 8, 2010

Everything @ Revolution Brewing

Yes, I waited the 2 hours for a table during opening weekend in a crush of people. Yes, in that time I sampled all 5 of the house brews.

It was all worthwhile.

First off, it's a great space, and surprisingly well-run for being only a few days old and completely overrun with patrons. If it was surprising that the food cedes nothing to the beer at this brewpub, perhaps it is more understandable that the varied and extensive menu comes from the mind behind Handlebar. All four of the Bruschetta (Roasted cauliflower & white bean, Duck confit, cremni mushrooms & fontina cheese, Roasted beet, endive & goat cheese, and tomato, red onion, & mozzerella) were terrific. The Workingman burger, though dry (as grass-fed, sustainable beef often is), was well seasoned, cooked, and very tasty. The Beluga Lentils, Quinoa & Winter Vegetables entree was similarly well-balanced, and far more accomplished than a barely week-old brewpub has a right to be. 


But, surely, the beer is the focus here, though only 5 home brew styles were offered (there is an extensive bottle list, as well as a selection of other tap beers). I'll do an abbreviated review of each, below:


Cross of Gold
"Crisp golden ale with a delicate hop finish" (5.0% ABV) is how they describe it. This is probably the standout and most original of the selection, with an unusual balance of pilsner-esque crispness and mild-IPA style hoppiness. Good mouthfeel, with nice, even coverage. A tiny twinge in the back of the tongue adds a nice finish. A

Workingman Mild"English luncheon beer with toffee and caramel notes. Low in alcohol, high in flavor" (3.5% ABV) - the "luncheon" beer was my choice for accompanying the Workingman Burger, and was a nice pairing. The Mild is mild in taste and appearance, though neither lacking in mouthfeel nor drinkability. I relatively low ABV content does not detract from the flavor, though the beer itself is nothing extraordinary. Solid, if unremarkable. B-

Iron Fist Pale Ale
"Dry-hopped American ale featuring Centennial, Cascade, Chinook and Amarillo hop varieties" (5.5% ABV) - one of two pale ales on tap this night, this was the milder of the two, with a very balanced, albeit subtle, hop profile. Nice color, aroma, and drinkability, though lacking in the signature bitterness that typical American-style IPAs have become known for. B-

Eugene
"Striking, robust porter full of warmth and chocolate malt." (7.0% ABV) - An excellent porter, with a dry finish and bold, yet balanced, maltiness. This would make an exemplary cask ale, were it to be offered (c'mon, offer it!). Surprisingly drinkable given the ABV, with all the even tongue coating that a porter should have. As fine an example as you will find locally. A

Anti-Hero IPA

This beer was a late addition to the offering, so no brewer-penned description available. Far hoppier than the Iron Fist Pale Ale, the Anti-Hero cost an extra $1 and was a smaller pour, but was easily more assertive and enjoyable. A fine IPA, if perhaps not amongst the very elite. A-


Per the website brewer's website, Bottom Up Belgian Wit and Wee Heavy are next to come. Having really enjoyed the Belhaven Wee Heavy at the Beer Tour of Europe in November, that is greatly anticipated. 


Revolution Brewing is open 11am - 2am 7 days a week, and offers lunch and dinner. It is located at 2323 N Milwaukee Ave; Chicago, IL; 60647  and its website is http://revbrew.com/

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